This is the most requested meal in my house by a long shot. It smells amazing and it’s rare that I don’t have all these ingredients on hand. This is my own one pot, “easy week night” twist to … Arroz Con Pollo! No one makes it better than my mom and this is not super fancy… but it’s absolutely delicious. And. When you can’t be in Panama and you NEED a fix fast… Here it is in, 30 seconds. Enjoy!
Arroz con pollo
Arroz Con Pollo
*Heat up dat oil
*Place chicken to cook. Add salt and pepper to taste.
* I love garlic so I add about half a tablespoon. Add more if you are riding public transportation this week.
*While the chicken cooks, chop onions, peppers, black olives, and tomatoes.
*When chicken is cooked, take the best kitchen utensil ever, scissors, and chop the chicken. This relieves stress btw.
* Add the chopped onions, peppers, black olives, and tomatoes. Remember, recipes are just a starting off point. I love green olives so much better than black olives, but the kids don’t. So, mix it up!
* I was blessed with the “cilantro is super refreshing” gene, so I add it to everything. If you think it tastes like soap, just add parsley.
* Let all that chopped stuff cook and simmer together. (About 20 mins) In your rice cooker, make rice. (About equal time for rice to cook)
*When everything is looking good… Mix together. Add water, or my fav, strained tomatoes for more flavor or juiciness. Add extra spices if needed. Sometimes some red cayenne pepper is everything.
* Close your eyes… pretend you are in Panama.. NOT in 30 degree weather in boring Cary!
Just a short 30 years ago, or so (heavy on the “or so”), my dad was stationed in this marvelous country of Panama. Little did my dad know, he would meet the Panamanian queen of his dreams and establish traditions for generations to come. There these two love birds were, speaking neither of each others’ languages, from two different backgrounds, and still, they managed to create the most generous and loving life for each other and others. Over the years, they have created some amazing memories and traditions for our family.
My parents taking the kids to Panama a few years ago
So, traditions.
We all have them. Sometimes we break them. Maybe we call our traditions, “routines”. Point being, we get comfy with how we do things and this year, every single one of us has had to get out of our comfort zone and do things differently, one way or the other.
I realize, “different” has definitely been the definition of bad for many, specially in 2020. However, “different” doesn’t necessarily HAVE to mean bad. And… this has been my reflection. Traditions can be changed. Traditions can be thrown out. Traditions can be added. Traditions should be meaningful.
Just because something has always been done one way for forever and a century, doesn’t mean it should always stay the same. This year, I have thought long and hard about what I do and how it impacts others. How can I make “different”, better? Personally, it goes for how I treat others, how I vote, who is in my inner circle, what I do for a living, what charities and movements I partake of, and the list goes on. I’m working on all those things…reexamining…some changing and others remaining. Today, I reflect a little on my “different” family traditions of the year.
I can really get stuck on a tradition. Don’t get me wrong, I love creating family traditions and memories, but sometimes I continue doing them for the pure sake of ritual! It might just be my OCD, but it’s a little bit of a, “it’s always been done this way” mentality.
One of my favorite fall traditions started when Tyson was 2 years old and I was 70 pounds pregnant with Gabrielle. My obsession at the time was baking. You could find me in the kitchen perfecting little treats such as caramel popcorn, s’mores, and apple cider. One October day, Tyson and I snuggled up together with all our snacks and watched the Wizard of Oz. I will never forget his reaction when he thought the wicked witch had finally trapped Dorothy. We got through that anxious movie moment and together created the “Wizard of Oz and Wicked Halloween Snacks” tradition. Each kid has thrown in their favorite snacks along the way and it is something I look forward to every year.
This year, it didn’t happen like I had planned! Admittedly, I cried a little. I have never missed a year of watching the Wizard of Oz. This was different. This was bad, right?
I soon realized, first, what a dumb problem to have…and… second, the kids were just doing this tradition for the sake of pleasing me. They hinted that they were over the whole Wizard of Oz theme but would totally be into the snacks! Dying inside, I provided the snacks, and I joined them in their Harry Potter Movie Marathon Mania instead. It was awesome. It finally dawned on me that the point of the tradition was just having a designated time to cuddle up my kids. Spending quality time with my wee three, was the most meaningful part of the tradition and ANY tradition. Different. But not bad.
Never taking for granted the fact that I am in Panama (for Christmas), I still felt sad about all the missed traditional events of the season that I usually partake of with my friends and family.
I miss giving you all hugs. I miss laughing and literally playing reindeer games. I miss the Christmas gift exchanges. I miss all the kids dressed up and matching. I miss seeing all of your Christmas cards. I even miss the big Christmas parties. I miss going out to the Christmas concerts. I miss the Christmas steak dinner (I am a vegetarian, but the kids can throw down on a Christmas steak). I miss Christmas ice skating. I miss not having to buy a gift online. I miss Christmas carols. I miss the sparkly holiday outfits. I miss creating gingerbread houses.
Sadly, it was a very different season with missing all of these traditional events…part for being in Panama, and other part because of Covid.
Reindeer gamesGingerbread houses
Yes. There has been a lot to miss out on this season, but what is important to appreciate, is what I have right now, right in front of me.
Our Christmas dinner was very different, but extraordinary; composed of my favorite traditional Panamanian arroz con pollo. We all giggled as we watched Christmas movies and many episodes of Friends in Spanish. The kids are feeling more comfortable talking in Spanish and mingling with locals and family. They rely on me to translate still, so that means they HAVE to hang out with me a lot! I may not be wearing a nice holiday dress with fancy shoes today, but, our many shades of tan prove there is a little Panamanian in us all.
We all knew it would be different this year, however, it doesn’t mean it hasn’t been special and that it has been bad. Again, remembering that I’m in the flaming 87 degree climate of Panama for Christmas, I know I am super lucky. I know there are those that are having a very different and bad holiday. My heart goes out to them and makes me grasp a little tighter to the every day things that should be in the forefront of my mind always- showing gratefulness in all things.
The time spent with the kids has been amazing. We’ve enjoyed the natural beauty that surrounds us from the white sand beaches of Buenaventura to the mountain top view from Cerro de la Cruz. Though different, Christmas has certainly been meaningful and filled with a lot of love.
Buenaventura BeachBeen parked her for the last few days drinking mango juiceOne of the most peaceful hikesWe had the mountain to ourselves for the 2 hour hikeOur guide did an amazing job leading us up hereFeliz Navidad
This Panamanian will be rooted at her roots for the holidays. With all the lockdown shenanigans, the family decided it was better to be locked down in Panama than freeze in our freedom in North Carolina. So happy to finish out the year here. This will be a December to remember.
January, however. Oh January.
You don’t need to know me for more than a day and a half to find out that I pretty much hate the month of January. It’s long. It’s dark. It’s cold. It’s gloomy. There aren’t any crazy fun holidays. To top it off, my daughter’s gymnastics schedule ramps up and sends my anxiety sky high.
I try and do all the little things to lessen my January misery. Spa. Mental health. Physical health. I totally immerse myself in Raleigh Restaurant Week and I watch all the Oscar nominated movies. It helps…but still… January.
Two years ago, the brilliant idea of vacationing during January came to me. It was a combination of celebrating the earning my master’s, escaping from the cold, and taking some of my besties to Panama. The trip was so awesome that the following year, I planned another January Panama trip with my amazing bestie, Cathy! These jaunts really got me through the height of my January Seasonal Anxiety Disorder.
January Jaunt 2019January Jaunt 2020: When we thought this was “The Year of Travel”
One thing I enjoyed doing on both occasions was meeting up and going through the “Panama Must Have” list.
You know. TSA Number. Frequent Flyer Number. Global Entry Card. Passport. License. Now add-Covid test. Emotional Support Documents. Affidavit. All the boring stuff. Then there are the…
Travel Ninja’s Panama Must Haves
*Skyroam Hotspot. Now this is a new addition to my list. Usually, I pay for an international day pass from my cellular provider. It cost $10 a day and $5 for additional lines. Being in Panama for a month this time, I didn’t want to spend the $10 a day. I bought this hotspot and paid $50 for an unlimited one month global WiFi subscription. I love it! It took me a while to get it working with my codes, but once it was set up, it is now my number one favorite traveling necessity. Up to 10 devices can sign on. It has a camera, charger, and help assistant.
Skyroam has some holiday deals right now!
*Sunblockers. This seems like a no brainer. However, I used to pride my little Panamanian self on how I didn’t need sunblock… in the USA… that is! I am not a burner…but when you are in Panama, every Panamanian will tell you, “El sol, es muy fuerte!” The intensity is no joke. So, listen to me! Lather it up, you will not regret it. Drink more water than normal and definitely wear the hat and sunglasses too!
*Chacos Sandals and/or Water shoes. I do both. Confession: I have major shoe issues. It is always a scandal when it comes to packing. I like my feet to be happy! I absolutely abhor allowing my feet to get too hot, too cold…or the worst…letting my feet touch something unknown. I have found that my Vibrams work amazing as water shoes. The only reason I have jumped off cliffs, to swim into mysterious waters… is all credit to my Vibrams. They give me an extra layer of protection from slimy rocks and weird water creatures. My Chacos have been around for 14 years strong and they are my go-to adventure sandal. Chacos are so comfortable for everyday wear and also sturdy for hiking and such.
Chacos for lifeVibram protection
*Swimsuit and Pants (Long skirt or Capris will do). Obviously it is 943 degrees in Panama, so you will need a swim suit or 3 at the beaches and pools. When you are going out and about, it is wise to wear pants or a long skirt…not shorts. Ok. So you CAN NOT wear shorts in government buildings. You will be turned away. It is frowned upon if you wear shorts to stores and other public venues. In the last few years, Panama has been getting more relaxed with the shorts etiquette, however, if you want to avoid a million honking trucks from the highway or standing out as a tourist, don’t show leg.
*Technology and Apps. If you are a drone kinda person, Panama has such wonderful scenic landscapes to use a drone. Bring your drone, if not, at least your camera. For the cameras, having a water shield is also helpful. Specially during rainy season, sudden downpours could put your devices in a bind. I highly recommend using the WhatsApp. It is how everyone communicates in Panama. If you are into food, DeGusta is the Panamanian version of Yelp. I use this a lot because I am visual person when it comes to my food. Gotta see those pictures. Waze is much better than Google Maps when it comes to live traffic updates. You want to avoid a tranque at all cost. Ain’t nothing like a Panamanian tranque… traffic jam.
Swimsuit. SPF 100. Hat. Glasses. Drink ALL the H2O
And now you are ready for your Panama trip. I’d like to add that having cash on hand for bus riding and taxi hopping is an absolute necessity. IF you have wild and unruly hair like me, protein packs and deep conditioner helps a ton. There are spots in Panama where it is cooler, so keep in mind that a hoodie or rain jacket (definitely during rainy season) should be thrown into your bag.
Most importantly, adopt some “Panamanian Patience”… things take longer here and plans change randomly. But it is totally ok, because you will be enjoying Panama weather in perfect Panama time.
Without a car in Panama, it left me feeling a little bit restricted. Here’s the thing. I am an all out city girl. I don’t mind hopping on a bus, hailing a taxi, riding a nasty subway, or… walking, walking, walking. I thoroughly enjoy those experiences because the “people watching” is on point and the culture of a place is on show. The wee three have been exposed to a lot of public transportation during traveling, however, there is nothing like jumping into your own car and just going for it.
Having a car gives you your independence, right?
Pre Covid shot of Panama
During the pandemic, new habits formed that had my kids abusing that independence. These little gluttons (I’m including myself here) developed a strong magnet for the nearest public food sources. Tyson became a licensed driver and I immediately labeled him as my personal UberEats delivery guy. Gi and Roman rode their scooters and bikes to the Harris Teeter, about a mile away, to pick up treats for our traditional “Thursday Snack Nights” that QUICKLY turned into daily snack nights. Gi got on a roll making us chocolate chip cookies and it seemed like someone was running to the store every few days for sugar, butter, flour… cue the music from Waitress! How were they going to function in a world that they couldn’t go to the store or pick up food on a whim!?
Ultimately, what swayed me, was the fact that renting a car in Panama isn’t easy. I won’t go into too much detail except, know your insurances, get them all, and expect your rental car not to be there when you show up. Mas o menos! Not much intimidates me when it comes to things like complicated rentals, but having the emotional support dog to deal with, the Covid precautions, and the kids… all by myself…I didn’t think it was wise to add the car rental onto my plate. So we committed to taking public transportation.
Bus music and Gi is serious about her empanadas
In San Carols, legend has it, there are only two Uber drivers. I believe this, and I believe we have met both of them. Javier and Darwin.
Javier was scheduled to pick us up from Anton Valley and bring us back to San Carols, just to tell us he’d be 6 hours late. Oh, you know, just 6 hours! So we took a taxi back. Darwin took us to the grocery store a couple times. He’s much better at timing- maybe 35-45 minutes late on pick up times- but don’t I adore the fact that he drops us off, waits for us to shop, and then brings us back home. Darwin and Tyson have hit it off as well. I feel I scored big on this because my kid is speaking in Spanish. On the downside, it’s a lot to put our dependency on Uber driver schedules. Restricted.
Darwin… as I have named him. Because I couldn’t read his writing.
Tuesday, we decided we needed to rip off the bandaid and get to the store by bus. Getting around by bus is way easier and cheaper, but kinda scary too. There is no waiting 974 minutes for your Uber to arrive, but you better know Spanish. You are completely immersed in the culture.
Our goal was to bus to the shopping center, and taxi back. Gi and Roman grabbed our grocery bags at 11:00am and we walked a quarter mile up to the bus stop. Our luck would have us hop on the bus within a minute of arrival. We successfully shopped at the Supper 99, bought 9 empanadas at the Riba Smith, ate tacos at Rockin Taco, and caught a taxi back by 2:00. This felt like a fun little excursion for us and we felt free and…unrestricted! (The bus ride cost a total of $1.50 for the three of us).
Not being a real Panamanian and wearing shorts out in public! No bueno! (It’s hot!) I will always find tacos
On our outing, we were mostly impressed by the consistent Covid restrictions. Before entering the bus, every passenger was sprayed down with alcohol and mask checked! I put on the required mask for obvious reasons, but also because I didn’t want to pick up sweeping duty or be fined for not wearing one! I stepped on the “foot sanitizing mat” and found something I need and want at my front door now! At any store entrance, there stands a security guard spraying alcohol and temperature checking. Seems like Panama is doing their very best.
Way to go, Panama
We felt confident enough to do this bus thing again, and go out a little further. On Wednesday, we hopped the bus to La Chorrera, where my family lives. It took us about an hour to get there. My family was quite impressed that we handled the bus so well and that the kids were speaking better Spanish.
Seeing Abuelita Bella was the highlight of my trip. I love that woman’s stories and scandals. She is living with my Tia Diama during Covid and seems to be doing amazing. They served us some fresh pineapple and updated us on the new Covid restrictions that will be taking place this week.
Peñarse Sweet smilesPineapple treats
Panama don’t play. Despite all their best efforts, Covid cases are still on the rise. In response, there will be a full lock down on Christmas and New Years Days (including a few days after each holiday), forbidden beach access, curfew starting at 7, and reduced group gatherings. And just when we were getting the hang of being resident Panamanians, we are restricted, again!
So, that leaves me in a spot trying to figure out what to do. Should I stay, or should I go now? What an appropriate Clash question! I certainly don’t mind being in a lockdown in this weather, however, I don’t want to spend Christmas without my family here. It may not be worth my family flying down here just to be in a lockdown. We shall see. Until I know, we will take advantage of the beach access, all day today!
One of the greatest travel experiences of my life was when I sailed through the Strait of Gibraltar. In middle school, I would peruse the maps of my World History book and felt completely mesmerized that the tiniest little location could get you a huge view of the world… Africa to your right and Europe to your left. Two continents! It became something I was obsessed with trying to see and it would sort of drive my travel style! There was a “Travel Ninja Jump” involved and you know that’s when I’m excited! It’s like being at the mountain top of Tennessee and being able to see 7 states at one time! That’s cool to me! Or, how about visiting Greece, one country, and being able to visit the Aegean, Mediterranean and Ionian Sea within hours? Oh, Greece, and all her seas.
The Travel Ninja Jump at the Strait of Gibraltar
My past trips to Panama have been mostly geared towards visiting family. Lately, however, there have been more opportunities to visit for just relaxation and exploration. I try and squeeze in a new bucket list item every time I come here. One of those items was to travel the country hitting both oceans in one day! Panama is pretty skinny… so it is completely doable, hence the Panama Canal! I’m doing KMs over here now. It’s about 80KM from coast to coast.
Cute little Panama
My original plan was to visit San Blas, on the Atlantic or Caribbean side of Panama. Yes, head shaking, I still have not visited San Blas! It’s a bloody shame, I know. But it will be amazing when I finally get there. I had a full itinerary planned out for it, but Covid closed it down right before we got here and I had to scram for plan B.
From my parent’s place (the Pacific side) to Portobelo (the Atlantic side) it takes about two and a half hours. I decided to book a catamaran by Portobelo to take us island hopping on the Atlantic side. (Check out Coronado Tours….Joanna is diii best). The Atlantic side is often referred to as the Caribbean coast. The stark difference between the coasts are very noticeable. The Caribbean coast is greener (from more rain) and the waters are more blue and turquoise. It was absolutely gorgeous!
The kids and I had the most perfect day! We started our journey at 5:30 am. “Mission Pacific to Atlantic” took us over the Panama Canal and to two stops at the “Va y Ven” (their version of Sheetz). We bought PaWa (Panama Waters), coffee, empanadas, cheetos, and M&Ms- because those are the essentials and it is Gabrielle’s favorite thing to do in Panama.
Chacos needed for every mission.
Panama Canal
We arrived at the port around 8:30 am and hopped on a little moter boat that took us to the catamaran. Maybe it was the Dramamine, or maybe it was because we woke up early, either way, all of us immediately fell asleep on our slow sail down to the beach. Nap one, down!
The boat was named Big Squirt! And people live here! 🥰Nap spot.
We sailed past many beautiful little islands and coves. Our first stop was at Playa Blanca for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. This was my favorite stop and I would have just stayed here all day. There’s no use trying to describe it. Just look at the pictures. Absolute paradise.
Playa BlancaObsessed with my Mandala Round Towel (sand proof)Too bright for my blue eyed boy. I love this awkward solo tree. Reminds me of me Clear waters Snorkeling and kayaking
Our next stop was Venas Azules. The water changed from a deep blue to gorgeous lighter blue through the lagoon. Our captain shared this drone shot that we loved! This location was rugged and remote. Panama’s natural beauty just showing off!
Drone view. Rugged beauty Gorgeous green
A very traditional Panamanian lunch was served and the kids ate it up. I couldn’t get over the eyeball on my plate, but, to each her own.
Can’t stop with the plantains… but take that fish away, please!
After a day of the most beautiful views, salt air, and sun, we all took another nap on the way back to the port. We are really getting a hang of this siesta laid back vibe! I would love to check out the town of Portobelo more. There is so much history here from Spaniards hiding gold from pirates to the first established Catholic Church of Panama. I hear Isla Grande is amazing and new luxury hotels are popping up everywhere. We can’t wait to make it back! Our Pacific to Atlantic adventure has us pretty convinced that Panama is just perfect.
We have settled here in Panama quite nicely. The chill vibes are in full force.
On Friday, we took our first excursion from San Carlos to Anton Valley. San Carlos is where my parent’s home is located. It’s on the Pacific side of Panama and it is most definitely paradise. Black sand beaches, caves, coconut trees, and gorgeous greenery surrounds us. I’ve taken some of my friends here to visit and I’m always so proud to show them this side of Panama.
A picturesque, but windy 45 minute drive from San Carlos, you can find yourself in Anton Valley. About 10 degrees cooler, El Valle sits in the crater of an extinct volcano. The kids were thankful for a little cooler weather. I put my hoodie on and took a deep breath of fresh mountain air.
I love these colorful signs!
Shortly after arriving in El Valle, I snapped a photo of the marvelous view below. And shortly after posting it, I received some negative criticism for my “essential travel” choice. I laughed it off because I knew it was coming. Travel shaming is the latest form of bullying.
In my opinion, shaming for any reason, shows that the shamer doesn’t have the needed skills to properly persuade others to “do it their way” or the “right way”. I certainly didn’t feel any need to change my plans after the shaming. Not one enlightening piece of information was shared. You didn’t see me head back to NC and stay put because of a couple of angry people. It actually made me dig my heels in deeper. Not going to lie, when others privately messaged me to laugh about the public snapping, it did make me feel good!
Sometimes I wonder, “do we think we are in a “Covid Competition?” Guys? Come on! Same storm. Different boat.
There are so many mixed messages. Does anyone feel guilty about sending their INSTACART person to face the grocery stores where NO ONE is temperature checked while we sit at home in our safe space!? (I love INSTACART by the way). Can we use our brains a little… do we think they aren’t breathing on all of our stuff in an enclosed car?! How about them Judgy Judys that totally act on travel sport events because that’s essential to their kids needs, but don’t even mention eating at an outdoor restaurant to them… or any restaurant for that matter. Those restaurant people definitely don’t need to get paid and should sacrifice their livelihood (please sense the sarcasm here). Just a side note…outdoor seating restaurants now have enclosed tents because it’s cold outside… isn’t that just indoor seating outside? Everyone knows everything, but nobody knows nothin.
You will always find me in the middle. I am not a woman of extremes. Please don’t get me wrong, I love extremist. They are the most fun.. specially the extroverted bungee jumping kind… but for me… I usually find a middle ground, weigh the pros and cons, and analyze the risks. I come to terms with my decision and I understand that no matter how I plan, things could go very bad… or… things could be great! Choose your risk wisely is what I say. I’m more of the, “No one is allowed to be in my house ever because I don’t want your nasty shoes/feet trailing in Covid,” but I’m also the “Put on your hazmat suits, we’re going to Panama!” Totally middle ground!
So, like pretty much everything I do, I weighed my options for this Panama trip as well. I thought about the risk of getting Covid, the possibility of spreading it to my older family members, my family’s mental well being, the social media repercussions, etc! Some, advised me not to post… but you know what… I completely enjoy posting…FOR ME. These postings are my memories and I truly cherish them.
I get the fear that people have and I get that some people are just trying their best but it comes out all wrong. Very wrong. I’m ok with that. Because I know MY reasons for this trip and I’m very confident these chill vibes are exactly what I need. Maybe a future post on my mental health journey from this past year… but for now, understand this trip is everything I needed. All in all, the travel shaming did not take away from this amazing volcano experience. I am also, very thankful for those of you who joined the journey with me in positivity.
I can’t get over the beauty!
I booked a “family house” at the Golden Frog Inn and it was every bit of exotic. As you can guess frogs are huge in Panama. Massive. I give 5 stars at this spot for the views and amenities; not for luxury. There wasn’t a spa or a gym but there was a gorgeous mountain view, outdoor porch eating with excellent Panamanian fixings, bikes to ride for free and a pool!
The little Inn.Our mountain houseRopa vieja and patacones
Pool view
If you stay in Anton, I highly recommend getting bikes. There are horse rides available if that is your thing, but for me that’s a little too expensive and horses kinda scare me. The Inn provided bikes for free so the kids and I took the bikes to the downtown area and stopped for pineapple drinks at the famous Bodhi Hostel.
Don’t think I will ever get tired of fresh pineapple
When in Anton, you’ll have no issue with boredom. There are so many nature lover adventures. It is very hard to pick just one. As a child, my parents took me to El Níspero Zoo a few times so I wasn’t too keen on another trip there. What has always captured my interest was hiking La India Dormida. From a distance, this mountain looks like a lady sleeping. Legend has it that these mountains carry the love story between an indigenous tribe princess and a Spaniard.
On our way up the mountain, a little boy told me the legend for some money. We negotiated a good price and let’s just say he was happy to get him and his friends some helados! The legend seemed pretty dramatic and interesting enough to grab my kid’s attention and it ended up being their favorite part of the trip. We enjoyed the many waterfalls and just being in the cool rainforest. I could barely get up all the rocks with my bad knees. Every once in a while, a Panamanian would wiz by like they do this hike all day, every day- which we found out, they do.
We scheduled a taxi driver to pick us up at 5:00 pm and bring us back to our hotel. 5:15 came around and no sign of our taxi man. As we started walking back, a dog came up to Roman and begged for water. Roman gladly gave her some and little did we know, this dog would follow us for the rest of the night.
Side Story:
My mom has this story that she tells us of her dog named Dukessa. When she was a little girl, one day, the entire family packed it up and went to the beach, including Dukessa. Dukessa went running around the beach and when it was time to go home, she was no where to be found. Everyone was sad. The family went home with no Dukessa. Then a few days later, there arrived Dukessa. She had taken a Chiba (a little colorful taxi bus) back home. As kids, we laughed and laughed at this story of a dog finding her way back home from the beach by bus! After spending all night with our new dog friend, who would NOT leave our sides, we totally believe my mom’s story now! Panamanian dogs are no joke.
We named our new dog friend Dukessa as she guarded our mountain house hotel door. Don’t worry, Banjo didn’t know about it all. Our Dukessa ate breakfast with us and cried as we got into the taxi to leave to San Carlos. This might be the most touching memory for Roman.
Overall, we had a wonderful little excursinon in El Valle. This was not a one and done check for me. I would like to go back again and explore some other hikes. One that I have on my mind is the “Cerro La Cruz” hike.
Other things to check out in Anton Valley:
El Valle Amphibian Conservation Center. Serpentario. El Mariposariois. Los Mandarinos Spa. Sunday Market. Hot springs. Craters Edge Brewery. Iglesia de San Jose.
Good times. Good views. Anton Valley. Chill Vibes.
My 9th sense was correct. Traveling to Panama during a pandemic is a scandal! We did make it safe and sound and we are finally settling in here on day 4. We hope you follow along on our scandalous adventure.
Scandals happen every single day. It’s my joy in life to await the scandals of the day. Will my ordinary Starbucks run just be a coffee stop…or will it result in someone reading the “drive thru” sign very literally and driving thru the drive thru window? Scandal, right?! True story. You see, to me, a scandal is any normal or ordinary event that turns, (sometimes suddenly) unordinary. The scandals fall on any side of the spectrum. It’s like being an innocent bystander to an unexpected unbelievable event. Sometimes however, I get a feeling that a scandal is right around the corner. And, that is how I felt about this Panama trip.
The summer trip to Panama reeked of scandal from the moment the thought was conceived back in February. Living in Panama for the summer meant the kids would miss out on seeing their friends, July 4th, driving practice, gymnastics, etc. However, they would get to experience Spanish classes, surf lessons, visit family, run on the black sand beaches, etc. Can you believe I had to convince the family of this idea? Absurd. The first scandal arrived in the form of, “let’s screw the whole world over” when the pandemic hit. Won’t even go there… let’s all agree that 2020 was just the biggest scandal of all. Skipping ahead, when the Panama border opened back up in October, I found myself without a job and three kids still in virtual academy school. THIS was the perfect time to gear up for “take two” of Panama living. As anyone would guess, traveling during a pandemic would not be for the weak. Enter travel ninja. You know when it comes to traveling…I’m just not that scared.
Some behind the scenes details:
Emotional Support Animal Scandal
The steps to get our 4 pound chihuahua on the plane was insane. Use this for reference if you plan on traveling internationally with your pet. Skip this part for boring doggy details. Overall it takes a lot more money and work than you might have thought…
Recent news, stated that emotional support animals had to be either a dog or cat. Check. No scandal there. That’s the easiest part. When you decide to take your pet, as you book your ticket, tell your airline about your (emotional) support animal. Your airline will have weight/carrier specific guidelines you must abide by. My biggest tip is to be very very very aware of the 30 day time line and all the small time lines in between. The following steps must be done no more than 30 days prior to your take off. First, you must get a health report from you local veterinary that cost about $80. We had to update rabies and some other Panama specific shots, costing us a few extra dollars. After your local vet completes that health form, the head honcho of vets in Washington DC needs to review, stamp, and sign her approval. During Covid, this process became an electronic step and can be done in a matter of a few days sent by your local vet to DC. After you get both vet signatures, you need to get the country approval; in our case, Panama. I made copies of all health forms and signatures and sent them to the Panama Consulate with a $30 check and a paid return envelope. It cost about $40 for both ways. I received the Panama Consulate certificate within a week. During the wait, I filled out the airline’s online emotional support forms. My mental health professional and the vet information was included. Also, a home quarantine form for your pet, not for you, is needed to bring a pet into Panama. That meant, no doggie daycare of “Banjerk”. This dog hates other dogs, because he has little man syndrome. So that wasn’t an issue. I filled this home quarantine form out with all the necessary information- but waited to send this through email, three days prior to travel, per their request. The emotional support forms were sent to my airline to get approved 10 days before my flight. Banjo received a registration approval number within 48 hours. When you think you have all the paper work done… nope… one more health certificate is needed for another $80 (to make sure nothing has changed with your pet in the last 15-20 days). I also decided he needed his talons clipped, because doesn’t everyone need a mani/pedi before a trip?This last health form is to have on hand at check in. At check in, be prepared with all your copies in a neatly organized folder and wait for your airline attendant to glance at it all for maybe .2 seconds. No big deal! Map out your doggy restroom stops at the airports and have some water on hand. Once you arrive in Panama, you will need to present your papers and your dog at customs. Once everything looks good you will pay $130 in CASH to pass through. I was tired and done at this point so this part is fuzzy. For some reason I owed $16 too… and I gladly gave it up as tip so we could finally walk out of the airport with a 4 pound dog that needed to lay a 4 pound turd. Congratulations! I made it through the emotional support animal scandal and if you don’t need Xanax after reading all that, you’re my hero. No. You can’t just walk on the plane with a dog. Who knew!?
Happy Happy Happy!
Covid Testing Scandal
So, yeah, you need to get tested in order to fly internationally. When Gi got Covid back in October, I honestly thought the entire family would get it too. I know this is a controversial subject for many people and for many reasons. For me, I am a firm believer that everyone’s experience is different, so we can’t judge others based on our own experience. More importantly, don’t judge. Honestly, I hope I (or my family) never get Covid. I hope I don’t get the flu. I hope I don’t get a wart. Tis the world we live in that we don’t get all our hopes and dreams. When I saw my daughter get through it like a champ, surely because her age and she had no under lying issues, it started to feel nice to finally be over the fear of it all. I thought it would lift a huge burden if we all just got it. We did the responsible thing. Gi was isolated. We wore masks in the house. Cleaned like mad and…. no one else in the family got it. Therefore, we panicked for a month before our trip. Now we REALLY didn’t want to get it!
The clarity of when and if we were supposed to have a Covid test was blurry at best. After talking to at least 4 American Airline representatives for at least 4 hours, in which none of them could commit to an answer, we sorta kinda concluded that you don’t need a Covid test at all to board a plane to Panama. You do however need a test and its negative results within 48 hours of stepping foot into the country. So you have two options. One, you get the “Panama nose swipe” when you land at the airport…if you are positive, you have to quarantine in a random hotel until you clear up… if you are negative, be on your merry way. Choice two, is to get yourself an Antigen or PCR test AND negative result within 48 hours of landing from your own city… if you do this, you won’t have any issues. Choice two, right? No problem. But there was this tiny problem called Thanksgiving. Covid test results were taking 3-5 days. Thankfully with the help of some doctor friends, we were able to find a location in Wake Forest that gave us our PCR results in 7 hours. We later found out that Antigen tests were accepted as well. Long story short, nobody knows what is going on right now. Grateful for negative results, we took screen shots and made 89 copies of each document to have on hand.
The Travel Day of Scandal
We finally made it through the two major hoops. The night before travel, you can always find me anxiously scrub cleaning my house, packing, and unpacking. Then packing again. The OCD hits hard.
Travel Ninja, does NOT, I repeat, does NOT check bags. It is a solid rule that I pack light. I am a hands free traveler when at all possible. We all know the travel tips of wearing neutral colors, rolling them pieces in a zipblock baggie, investing in a pair of comfy flexible shoes, and buying little things needed at your destination. Done, done, done, and done. This time however, we had a few different variables. There was the month long time frame and the bringing of our emotional support pet. I struggled back and forth on whether we should check a bag. Do I bring Banjo’s hoity-toity Whole Food’s small breed dog food or just buy something I can find in Panama? We decided at the last minute to check a bag.
Roman accidentally stole the Target basket.
So of course, along with his dog food, we stuffed the bag with extra shoes, and made a late night Target run for full bottles of shampoo, sunblock, peroxide, and lotions to add to our checked bag. At this point, I said, “let’s just break all my travel rules”. We filled out our affidavit, printed out all our documents for Banjo, had 89 copies of our negative Covid tests and checked into American Airlines. A notification flashed up telling us to check in at the airport. All set.
4:30 am: We wake up to give Banjo 20mg of CBD treats. Banjo is running around the house in circles because he knows something is up.
4:45 am: I clean my hair last minute and start praying that I can use the bathroom BEFORE I get on the plane. Yep, I took a smooth move tea because there ain’t nothing like being backed up for 17 days straight from nervous nelly belly.
5:00 am: This was the time I was hoping to be at the airport, but I kept rechecking my bags because of OCD. I packed the bags with the passports…unpacked the bags with the passports..packed it back up…counted the cash 325 times…asked a million times, “Do we have the passports?”… We head to the airport.
5:15 am: Arrived at the airport. Wave goodbye to North Carolina and that cold morning.
5:18 am: The kids and I ask for help on where to go. There are tons of people in 7 different lines. The attendant asked, “Are you going Panama City, Florida or Panama City, Panama”. I explain we are traveling internationally and so we are sent to the line of 900 people.
Umm… 6 feet apart people!
5:20 am: The line has doubled behind us. 1800 people are standing in line.
5:40 am: We have not moved one iota of an inch and we start to get very worried. Boarding starts soon and the people in front of us are complaining so bad that their negative vibe starts rubbing off on us. Their bags were the size of Roman.
6:00 am: Wishes do come true. Smooth move worked.
6:20 am: Smooth move worked again.
6:31 am: There is one person standing in front of us before we get to the counter. We hear rumors of not being able to check our bag now because there wasn’t enough time. To be prepared, Roman started taking out all of our newly bought cosmetics and began throwing them out. The rumor is confirmed, as true, when we reached the counter. We were told that our party was the last one they could possibly help get to Panama for the day and asked if we wanted to reschedule our flight for tomorrow since no bags could be checked and we were running low on time! Um… NO!! Somehow, they allowed us to bring the bag with us as carry on if we threw all our liquids out. We obliged. I asked 340 times if our tickets said we were TSA because we had no time to go through the other line. Our attendant told Gi and Roman to run to the TSA line and get in line for me so we could get to the gate on time. I looked at my ticket and it said TSA, so we were off. RUNNING.
6:40 am: TSA line rejected just Gi. Her ticket didn’t stay TSA so they let the boys go through and made me and Gi go through the normal line. The line you have to take your shoes off. This grosses me out. The sole reason I am in the TSA program is so I don’t have take my shoes off. Eww to feet!
6:45 am: The security attendant grabbed Gi’s bag and threw it back at her and told her to take the laptop out.
*The security attendant yelled at me to take my laptop out of my bag.
*The security attendant threw Gi’s bag at her AGAIN and told her to take out the ipad.
*I apologized and told her our circumstances–that we were in the TSA line and they wouldn’t take Gi and we weren’t certain of all the rules. I assure you I was very sweet even with all our worry. Security lady did not care.
*Banjo is chilling out in his bag but then realizes that the bag in front of him has a cat in it. He starts barking like a nut. We are trying to cover his eyes but we are distracted by the yelling from security guard we shall name Bon Qui Qui. We are a hot hot mess.
6:55 am: Tyson is sweating bullets from carrying a now broken suitcase. Roman is cheering us on. Gi is crying. I have one shoe on and holding the other shoe under my pit with Banjo barely hanging on for dear life.
6:57 am: We made it to the gate and then they CHECK ALL OUR BAGS! After all that, they checked ALL our bags!
7:01 am: Me and the wee three are the last ones to step foot on the plane. We are breathing heavy but relieved. We get the stares from everyone.
7:02 am: The doors have shut, however there are two families seated in the wrong seats. OUR seats. 4 families have to move around so we can get our seats back. Banjo starts crying for thirst.
8:45 am: Smooth move really really wants to work.
9:10 am: Welcome to Miami!
9:20 am: Banjo turns his nose up to the emotional support pet rest stop. He is as snotty as a dog can get. He does not relieve himself. He is absolutely nervous and hates this place. Gi starts screaming because there is a flying roach. We are all terrified.
9:30 am: The kids and I have walked the entire terminal looking for a suitable breakfast. We find a Cuban bakery and wait in line for 20 minutes. The taste of real coffee makes me feel like we are close. Almost there. We can do this!
10:00 am: Smooth move works
10:05 am: I go to the duty free shop to purchase a travel whiskey and coke to take the travel scandal edge off. I am told I can’t carry a .001 oz bottle of whiskey around and that I would have to pick it up at my gate. If this was our morning, I don’t even know what it will be like in Panama, so I purchase two travel whiskies and plan to pick up at the gate. I find some chicken for Banjo to eat, but he refuses. He drank some water but you can tell he is highly uncomfortable.
10:20 am: We wait at the gate thrilled we have time to spare. We start to smile again.
11:30 am: Take off to Panama!
2:30 pm: Bienvenido a Panama!!
2:40 pm: We are greeted by Panamanians dressed in hazmat suits. It was quite a sight and I didn’t know if this was the theatrics of the culture or what. Regardless, I put my “city-girl-travel-ninja” attitude on and gave the kids their talking to, “You act like you know what’s going on, use your head, walk fast, stay close to me, and Roman… hide your blonde hair and look like a Panamanian!” The attendants asked us if we were staying in Panama for a while, and because we were, they directed us to terminal 2. This was a misstep. On our long walk, we passed the Panama Covid testing center and there were only 3 people in line.
2:45 pm: We realized our bags were going to terminal 1 and we were told the wrong thing.
2:50 pm: We pass the Covid testing center again and see 10 people were in line. We head to terminal 1 and Customs.
2:55 pm: The line for checking your Covid test results and affidavit wrap around a staircase. We stand in line for 10 minutes. We presented our passport with our Covid tests results. It was super easy!! Some people were turned away for not having the tests done in time.
3:05 pm: The Customs line is a 15 minute wait. They speak to us in Spanish and stamp our passports… the most wonderful sound in the world!
3:20 pm: Our “divide and conquer” tactic is in full play as we seek out our luggage. Roman has his bucket hat on hiding his blonde hair and blue eyes and is pulling luggage off the conveyer like a pro.
3:30 pm: Our baggage goes through the conveyer for custom checks. I have a casual conversation about how I am (was) a teacher and I’m bringing my kids to Panama to learn Spanish and see family. Banjo accidentally goes through the conveyer. A Panamanian Customs lady starts yelling, “perrito, perrito!”
3:35 pm: We meet with animal control to check on Banjo’s papers. There are some cute dogs (including a french bulldog). Banjo, our little jerk, starts barking incessantly, but thankfully tires out after 10 minutes. We pay our dollars and we get the heck out of there.
3:45 pm: My first step out of the airport feels amazing. I wave over to our scheduled pickup guide. He has a cooler of refreshments and Panamanian music playing. We finally made it! We drive through the city, the bridge, the mountains, the country….to the beach!
5:15 pm: The “Super 99” in Coronado is our first stop for some groceries. Before entering, we of course had to wear masks. There was a temperature check at the door with a spray of antibacterial to your hands. When stepping into the store they made us clean the bottoms of our shoes with a light antibacterial spray. YES! TO ALL THIS! We were absolutely beat and really had no business grocery shopping. The kids threw in some mangos and other fruits into our bag along with the sunblock and lotions. Essentials.
5:45 pm: Our driver was looking for a cell phone that kept ringing in our car. Turns out it was Banjo’s whimpering. CBD started wearing off.
6:00 pm: Rio Mar was in plain sight. We dropped our bags, ran to the beach. Took a photo.
6:15 pm: Sighing a sigh of greatest relief, we made it through a very long scandalous day! May our Panama living begin!
We all slept very well the last couple nights. For the next couple days, we have some settling in to do. One of the AC units isn’t working, so we are getting that fixed. We definitely need another trip to the grocery store. The kids have to set up their virtual school and get into a routine. Nothing seems like chore however. We are so thankful to be here and enjoying every minute of this Panama paradise.